Posts Tagged ‘cuisine’

Friggin Awesome Burgers in Toledo!

// June 14th, 2011 // No Comments » // Blog, Restaurant Reviews

Tin Chef Chuck

I recently had the opportunity to try out two new burger joints in Toledo.  What is really newsworthy here is not how great they were, nor how awesome the service was or even how good the food was.  What really has excited me is that we now have two new restaurants that are pushing the culinary envelope.  Places that really have something unique to eat.  These are not another cookie cutter place that reheats generic burgers bought in bulk from a large restaurant supply house.  Rather each uses really high quality meat, makes handmade patties and then creates truly unique flavors by using really fresh ingredients.  Before I really dive into these new places, I need to mention one of my all time favorites.  Not quite as hip as Bar145, and not quite the gourmet experience you get at BurgerBar419, but if you are looking for an honest to God, greasy spoon awesome burger- you need to go to the Green Lantern on Broadway.  Don’t let the appearance fool you.  The Green Lantern has been around since the 1930’s for a reason.  It’s not heart healthy, but it is a great greasy cheeseburger place.  Stop in for breakfast and lunch.  Try a double Goopy, and tell Mo I sent you.  You go there once and I promised you will be hooked!

The first new place I want to talk about is Burger Bar 419.   Burger Bar 419 is located in South Toledo on 4400 Heatherdowns Blvd. or across from the Distillery in the old Matthews.  The first time we went there, we had almost every appetizer!  Start with the basic, good old fashioned French Fries.  The battered fried onion petals were good but nothing special, but then cam e the roasted marrow bones with sweet onion marmalade.  The first time we had this- it wasn’t perfect.  In fact it was almost raw.  But for crying out load- bone marrow in Toledo, minutes from my house.  Yes there were several errors in technique- but the concepts are there.  We were there a day or two after the place just opened.  The execution has gotten better and this really has become my favorite hangout in Toledo.  The pickled vegetables are awesome.  The chipotle pickled pineapple and goat cheese is great, I personally love the crispy pork belly with homemade kim chee!  This was another dish that was undercooked on our first go around, but the flavors and potential was there.  It was spectacular the next time we went.  Make sure you try the sriracha-soy deviled eggs with bacon and arugula.

The Burger Bar 419 has 15 or so burgers and they are all $9.00.  The offer a wide selection of home made mayonnaise and aolis, as well as several unique ketchup’s and mustard’s.  The Heater, Italian, Pate Melt, and Vintage Bleu are all awesome.  You can’t go wrong when you use all fresh ingredients and combine great flavors.  I can’t wait to try all of them.

We had the milkshakes for desert.  So far, this has been the biggest shortcoming of Burger Bar 419.  They were small, over priced and nothing memorable.  Personally, I would save your money and go to Handel’s!  Don’t let the deserts stop you from checking this place out though; I am sure it will become one of your favorite Toledo hangouts.

The other place we recently went to was Bar145° on Monroe Street.  Bar 145 is very different from Burger Bar 419.  First, it has a totally different atmosphere.  It seems more like a club than a burger place.  They have live music, a dance floor and a large bar.  There appetizers include fried pickled green beans, fries, artichoke gratin, a baked potato waffle, bourbon onion straws, mac and gouda, pretzel chips, and smoked salmon with garlic flat bread. By the way- any idea how Bar 145 got it’s name?  Overall the appetizers were pretty good, but nothing spectacular.  Most were served with generic salted/peppered flat crackers, which I think detracted from the flavor of several of the dips.  They have a few burgers on the menu, but they do a build your own menu.  What is nice here is that they use really high quality ingredients and do a pretty good job of creating your custom burger.  I may be splitting hairs, but I wish they would create a few more signature flavors by combining the awesome ingredients that they offer.  Surprise me, don’t make me think- create that special, signature burger for me!

We didn’t really try out the bourbon, but did have several of their gelato’s.  They had some nice flavors- but I am really partial to my salty caramel, so make sure you read TC Josh’s reviews as well.

In the end these are 2, no make that 3 great places.  If you are looking for breakfast during the week or on Saturday, the make sure you try the Green Lantern.  The Green Lantern is also a great place to grab lunch during the work week.  Once you meet Mo (Maurice), you will fall in love with the Lantern!  I look at Burger Bar 419 more as my local neighborhood hangout, where I can sit at the bar and talk to the chef as he cooks my next burger.  Bone marrow, pickled vegetables and cold Heineken and an awesome burger- can it get any better? To me Bar145 is that place you go to on a Friday or Saturday night, have a great burger and take in some great music.  All 3 places offer unique atmospheres- each may be more appropriate depending on your mood or day of the week.   But all 3 of these places need to be experienced.  If I hear one more person complain that there is nowhere to go, nothing to do, no where to eat in Toledo- I swear I am going to slap the #@%& out of you!  Places like these 3 restaurants would have waiting list in any other city- if they struggle, it’s your fault!  Take a walk on the wild side and try one of these places this week, in fact, try all 3 and leave a comment on which one you think is best.

 

Tin Chef Chuck

 

David Lebovitz: This recipe is simply amazing

// June 4th, 2011 // No Comments » // Recipes


Tin Chef Chuck

I first had salty caramel ice cream from Jeni’s Ice Cream in Columbus.  It was really pretty good.  As you may know, I have a really great ice cream machine and wanted to make my own.  I found several recipes and most of them turn out OK.  The I came across this recipe.  Sorry Jeni, but this is truly amazing.

I can’t take any credit for this.  I copied it from David Lebovitz‘s web page.  It is so friggin good that I want to share it with you.  I normally wouldn’t do this, but once you taste it, you’ll understand why.  The other reason is I keep losing my copy of the recipe.  To top it off, I can never remember the web site, so I have to Google it and look through several recipes until I come across this one.  So I am posting it were I know I can find it again.  I often use other peoples recipes, try them out, and always make changes and do things so it really become mine.  Not this time- there is nothing that can be done to improve this recipe- it’s the perfect ice cream!  David- you’re the man!

With respect to my ice cream machine, it is a Musso Pola machine from Italy.  It’s pretty expensive and can be found on Amazon.  They also make a smaller model which is probably more appropriate for the typical home cook.  I did a lot of research before I bought this baby.  It’s pretty heavy duty and could be used in a restaurant.  It will make 2 quarts every 20 minutes and it’s very quit.  Yea, it’s overkill, but it is the best money I have ever spent!

So here is David Lebovitz’s amazing ice cream…

Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream
One generous quart (liter)

I know I’m sounding like a broken record, but be sure to use good salt. I use fleur de sel, but if you don’t have it, a mild-tasting sea salt will do in a pinch, such as Maldon, fine gray salt, or kosher salt. Don’t use ordinary fine table salt; it’s far too harsh.

Because of the caramel in this ice cream, once churned and frozen, it’ll remain nice & creamy (as shown in the photo.) To make it firmer, crank up your freezer a bit or store it in a shallow pan.

For the caramel praline (mix-in)

½ cup (100 gr) sugar
¾ teaspoon sea salt, such as fleur de sel

For the ice cream custard

2 cups (500 ml) whole milk, divided
1½ cups (300 gr) sugar
4 tablespoons (60 gr) salted butter
scant ½ teaspoon sea salt
1 cups (250 ml) heavy cream
5 large egg yolks
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

1. To make the caramel praline, spread the ½ cup (100 gr) of sugar in an even layer in a medium-sized, unlined heavy duty saucepan: I use a 6 quart/liter pan. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or brush it sparingly with unflavored oil.

2. Heat the sugar over moderate heat until the edges begin to melt. Use a heatproof utensil to gently stir the liquefied sugar from the bottom and edges towards the center, stirring, until all the sugar is dissolved. (Or most of it—there may be some lumps, which will melt later.)

sugarcaramelizing.jpg

Continue to cook stirring infrequently until the caramel starts smoking and begins to smell like it’s just about to burn. It won’t take long.

3. Without hesitation, sprinkle in the ¾ teaspoon salt without stirring (don’t even pause to scratch your nose), then pour the caramel onto the prepared baking sheet and lift up the baking sheet immediately, tilting and swirling it almost vertically to encourage the caramel to form as thin a layer as possible. Set aside to harden and cool.

4. To make the ice cream, make an ice bath by filling a large bowl about a third full with ice cubes and adding a cup or so of water so they’re floating. Nest a smaller metal bowl (at least 2 quarts/liters) over the ice, pour 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk into the inner bowl, and rest a mesh strainer on top of it.

5. Spread 1½ cups (300 gr) sugar in the saucepan in an even layer. Cook over moderate heat, until caramelized, using the same method described in Step #2.

6. Once caramelized, remove from heat and stir in the butter and salt, until butter is melted, then gradually whisk in the cream, stirring as you go.

buttercaramel.jpg

The caramel may harden and seize, but return it to the heat and continue to stir over low heat until any hard caramel is melted. Stir in 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk.

7. Whisk the yolks in a small bowl and gradually pour some of the warm caramel mixture over the yolks, stirring constantly. Scrape the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and cook the custard using a heatproof utensil, stirring constantly (scraping the bottom as you stir) until the mixture thickens. If using an instant-read thermometer, it should read 160-170 F (71-77 C).

8. Pour the custard through the strainer into the milk set over the ice bath, add the vanilla, then stir frequently until the mixture is cooled down. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or until thoroughly chilled.

9. Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

10. While the ice cream is churning, crumble the hardened caramel praline into very little bits, about the size of very large confetti (about ½-inch, or 1 cm). I use a mortar and pestle, although you can make your own kind of music using your hands or a rolling pin.

11. Once your caramel ice cream is churned, quickly stir in the crushed caramel, then chill in the freezer until firm.

Note: As the ice cream sits, the little bits of caramel may liquefy and get runny and gooey, which is what they’re intended to do.

Copied from David Lebovitz’s web site….

TC Chuck

Happy Birthday TC Josh and Ricotta Cheese….

// June 4th, 2011 // No Comments » // Blog, Recipes

Tin Chef Chuck

First, I would like to take this time to wish my fellow Tin Chef, Josh Happy Birthday.  Now what does that have to do with ricotta cheese you ask?  Nothing.

I just decide now would be a could time to talk about ricotta cheese.  I love the stuff and I am always picking up some for the store for pasta, ice cream or whatever other uses I can come with.  A while back, I came across a recipe allowing you to make your own ricotta.  I finally got around to giving it a try.  Two thumbs up here!  It’s really good, way better than the store bought pre-made stuff and it is super quick and easy.  It’s one of those things that can really impress people, as long as they don’t read this blog and find out how ridiculously simple it is to make.  So here is my recipe…

Materials:

  • 1/2 gallon of whole milk, preferably organic
  • 1 pint of buttermilk, again organic if you can find it
  • Cheesecloth
  • Colander and large glass bowl
  • Stainless steel saucepan

Instructions:

  1. Fold several layers of the cheesecloth and line the colander with it.
  2. Combine the milk and buttermilk in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.  Stir with a rubber or silicone spatula being sure to scrape the bottom of the pan.  You don’t want the milk to burn.
  3. Once the mixture is warm, you can stop stirring.  Continue heating until the temperature is between 175-180°F.
  4. You should now start to see lumps forming.  These are the curds separating from the whey.
  5. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour the mixture into the colander.
  6. Once it is well drained, carefully gather the edges of the cheesecloth and tie it into a small bag with some butchers string.
  7. Hang it from your faucet and allow it to cool and drain for another 10-15 minutes.
  8. Try to use it fresh or remove from the cheesecloth and refrigerate.

Give it a try- it’s awesome!  Now I need to figure out what to do with the whey.

So happy birthday again  Tin Chef Josh, won’t be long and your going to catch me!

TC Chuck

 

Mamma Mia

// May 31st, 2011 // No Comments » // Blog, Restaurant Reviews

Tin Chef Chuck

I usually know better than to try out Italian Restaurants when I am out of town.  Oh, sure I have been to some really spectacular places, but I have been to even more that were nothing short of horrendous.  The problem is that I am a bit of a snob when it comes to Italian food.  First, I grew up in Youngstown, Ohio.  Nobody makes better meatballs than my mother, period, end of discussion.  In Northeast Ohio there were tons of little corner mom and pop places that served authentic and nothing short of amazing Italian food.  Then I traveled to Italy several times.  So I am really hard to please.  I admit it.

So I am not sure what possessed me to stop in Mamma Mia’s Italian Restaurant in Heath, Ohio.  The parking lot was empty and I was the only patron.  The red flags were going up everywhere.  Yet I sat down.  I quickly looked over the menu and ordered the sliced Italian sausage as an appetizer, a side salad and egg plant parmigiana.  Much to my chagrin, they were out of the eggplant parm.  My second choice was the manicotti.  To be complete, I ordered a pepperoni and mushroom pizza to go.

While I waited for my order, I chatted with the owner.  He told me how business has been pretty slow.  He shared that he had been open for about four months.  He then excused himself and went to bring my sausage.  I wasn’t getting my hopes up, but it did look interesting, thin slices of sausage in a spicy marinara sauce.  It was a pretty large serving, and I was already anticipating having a few bites and then focusing on my pasta dish to come.  The owner told me he made everything from scratch- really, in Heath, Ohio.  So I started to eat it as he told me how he learned to cook from his mom and trained and worked in other Italian restaurants.  It was amazing, the sausage was tender and flavorful, and the sauce was truly spectacular.  Fortunately, the place was empty and no one saw me licking up the sauce.  The manicotti was very good.  Manicotti a simple dish’s that’s relatively easy to make and usually taste pretty good.  The only big mistake is to over season it- this one was perfect.  Being the snob that I am, no gold stars for manicotti, I was waiting for the tiramisu.  I always order tiramisu; it’s my barometer of a good Italian restaurant!  This one was home made and was over the top!  The pizza was incredible as well.

So I am sold- I found my new favorite place to eat while in the Newark area.  I can’t wait for lunch tomorrow.  If you live in the area or are passing by, stop in and support this place.  Restaurants like this need to survive!  It’s a special place were fresh ingredients are used by someone who obviously has a passion for what they are doing and does it well. With a little luck, I can get a glass of wine next time I am there!  Good food, fair prices and really nice people working there.  Check it out:  Mamma Mia’s, 773 Hebron Road, Heath, Ohio, (740) 522-0000.  They are open Tuesday through Sunday from 11:00am to 9:00pm.  See you there.

TC Chuck

Tin Chef Chuck & Sous Vide

// February 8th, 2011 // No Comments » // Blog

Tin Chef Chuck

Sous vide is French for “under vacuum”.  It was first used by the French in the 1970’s and is beginning to become more popular in the states.  Sous vide uses a low temperature water bath with a very precise temperature range. It hasn’t really been adopted into the home kitchen for a couple of reasons, mainly the expense.  Sous vide machines were initially adapted from science supply house lab equipment, which tended to be pricey.  Also, the home vacuum machines didn’t work as well, requiring commercial sealing equipment.  So a basic setup would cost several thousand dollars.  Fortunately, there are now a few home units available for a much more reasonable price.   I recently picked up the Sous Vide Supreme on Amazon for under four hundred dollars and I am using my cheapo vacuum sealer for now, although I must admit I have my eye on the VacMaster VP210C Dry Piston Pump Chamber Machine.

As is usually the case with me, it was an impulse purchase.  My wife, Tin Chef Steve’s wife and several of the girls in my office have recently been doing the HCG diet thing.  And I must say they all look great- but do you have any idea how hard it is to cook 100 grams of chicken, fish or lean red meat with no fat of any kind?  A little lemon juice and seasoning- that’s it.  I was inspired when I watched her cut up and weigh the meats in 100 gram portion and then place in regular zip lock bag.  Over cooking a few of the little portions helped trigger my impulse- voila, two days later I was unpacking my machine.

The idea of sous vide cooking is that you cook the food at a relatively low temperature for a longer period of time.  If you want your steak medium rare, the goal is to get the center pink at 131°F.  Normally you need to cook the steak at higher temperatures which creates a “bull’s eye” effect, hotter at the surface with gradually decreasing temperatures towards the center.  That said, the outer portion is also closer to well done.  Sous vide gets everything perfectly cooked.  Once done, you can quickly sear the outside to brown the meat, also known as the Maillard reaction.  The Maillard reaction occurs when the denatured proteins on the surface combine with the sugars present, creating that wonderful “meaty” flavor and changes the color. High temperature, low moisture levels, and alkaline conditions all promote the Maillard reaction.  In cooking, low moisture levels are necessary mainly because water boils into steam at 212° F (100° C), whereas the Maillard reaction happens noticeably around 310° F (154° C).  Browning of food does not occur until all surface water is vaporized. When meat is cooked, the outside reaches a higher temperature than the inside, triggering the Maillard reaction and creating the strongest flavors on the surface.  With sous vide, the Maillard reaction will never occur, thus the extra step is needed.

Cooking tenderizes food by breaking down its internal structure. This process happens faster at higher temperatures. Because sous vide is done at such low temperatures the cooking time needs to be increased to achieve the same tenderization as traditional techniques.  Although it takes time, tougher cuts of meat (and cheaper) can really come out amazing.  I have cooked lamb and beef so far, but I have some short ribs ready to go.  The sous vide technique allows you to cook tough cuts of meat at an incredibly low temperature, allowing you to tenderize them while remaining perfectly medium-rare.  This is very effective for roasts and other pieces of meat that I usually braise or roast, but often dry out or get overcooked in the process.  So for my short ribs, I have read that it may take up to 36 hours.  I will let you know how that works.  Although possible, it is much harder to overcook things as well.  Another advantage of sous vide.

Obviously, this isn’t quite a “Rachel Ray” thirty minute meal.  It will take a little pre-planning;  kind of tough for my personality, but I’m working on it.

My first Sous Vide Experience

I picked up a few really nice filet mignon cuts, a lamb steak, and some short ribs.  For the HCG diet, I cut the filets into about ¾ inch slices, which came amazing close to 100 grams.  I adjusted the weights and sealed each in a vacuum bag with various spices.  I really mixed it up- Cajun, garlic, thyme and a few other combinations.  For the lamb, I tossed in some Herbes de Provence.  I tossed the bags into my Sous Vide Supreme set at 132° F for about 2 ½ hours.  I then dropped one filet into a hot nonstick pan to quickly brown them.  Pretty darn good…  And my wife has 5 other meals in a bag ready to go.  I am looking forward to the short ribs and I can’t wait to start playing with eggs.  Now that I think about it-  I bet I can come up with a pretty amazing Jigs Dinner…

Tin Chef Chuck

Why I ask.

// December 16th, 2010 // No Comments » // Blog

Tin Chef Chuck

Is sea salt healthier than regular salt?  Why does “Italian” watermelon taste better?  Why do tomatoes taste like crap?   Is “salt” really bad for you?   Is “fat” bad for you?  Why do we spend billions on nutritional supplements and why hasn’t any study shown them to work?  What is a phytonutrient?  Why is it that the French eat real butter, rich foods, fried foods, animal fats,  drink wine every day and smoke incessantly, yet the we (The  United States) have one of the highest mortality rates in the world from cardiovascular diseases?

Do you know that since 1950 that the humble  potato has lost 100% of its vitamin A, 57% of its vitamin C and iron, 28% of it’s calcium, 50% of it’s riboflavin, 18% of it’s thiamine and of 7 key nutrients, only niacin has increased.   The story is the same in most fruits and vegetables.  Why?

Think about it.  In the mean time, I am really thinking about a road trip to Cleveland to eat at Sterle’s Country House.  It’s been a few years since I have been there, but it was amazing.  I am also planning my menu for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.  I am thinking something traditional for Christmas Eve- classic Italian 7 fish menu.  May have to add a carrot for my vegetarian daughter, some red meat for my oldest daughter that hates seafood, and a few cheeseburgers (plain, ketchup only) for kids 4 and 5.  Looks like only one of 5 kids (oldest son) will eat the “traditional” Italian food- back to asking why again!

Tin Chef Chuck

Braising…my favorite method of cooking

// June 1st, 2010 // No Comments » // Blog, Recipes

Tin Chef Chuck

Braising is by far one of my favorite cooking techniques.  In the past, I would toss a relatively inexpensive cut of meat into a crock pot, throw in a few veggies, a little beef stock and- fire and forget.  Although the results were pretty good, braising in the oven  results in spectacular and complex flavors.  The only down side is that it takes a little time- it’s easy, but not quick.  Braising was a typical peasant method of cooking, slow simmering beef in wine as a means of tenderizing cuts that would have turned out terrible any other way.  Braising is awesome and can transform most inexpensive, tougher cuts in to “haute cuisine“- basically delicious fancy, smancy French cooking.

The basic technique is to first sear the meat.  I like to use a cast iron dutch oven with a little olive oil and butter.  Sear all sides of the meat until it develops a rich brown color.  Remove the meat and set aside.  Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

In the same pan, saute one onion, 1 or 2 celery stalks coarsely chopped, and 2 carrots, also coarsely chopped. I love garlic, so I will always add several gloves of chopped garlic.  You can also add a pepper for a little heat.  You can also add a few bay leaves and flat Italian parsley, also chopped.   Cook the vegetables down, salt and pepper to taste.  Add a little more olive oil if needed. You can add about 2 tablespoons of tomato paste now, or add whole tomatoes a little later.

Put the meat back into the pot and add several cups of red wine.  Simmer for 20-30 minutes to reduce the wine down by at least half.  Add about 12-14 ounces of low sodium beef broth and if you like, a can (28 ounces) of San Marzano tomatoes that have been crushed by hand. Stir everything together.  Cover the pot and place in the pre-heated oven and braise for about 90 minutes.  Remove the cover and cook for an additional 30 minutes or so.  You could use a crock pot here, but I only do that on my boat now.

There are several variations that you can try.  The meat can be dredged in a seasoned flour before searing.  You can also mix up the veggies, typically sticking with root vegetables.  This works great with “cheaper” or tougher meat cuts.  Veal shanks (Osso Buco) are my favorite, but you can use just about any roast.  Bone in short ribs are also excellent.  Coq au vin is braised chicken.  Coq means rooster, which is typically very tough, and works well with braising.  Classically a capon is used, but we don’t have a lot of neutered chickens running around in Toledo!   But too be honest I wouldn’t even know where to look to tell if the chicken was neutered.   Coq au vin usually has mushrooms and Burgandy wine, but there are endless variations.  Beef bourguignon is another traditional French recipe and just another variation of beef braised in red wine.  It is usually seared in bacon fat and has pearl onions and mushrooms.

I love adding 1-2 hot peppers to add a little zing.  I will also add a little acid, either a splash of Ver Jus, wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar to bring out even more flavor.  Next time I will talk about making a roux and using bouquet garni in your cooking.  CJG